Pag
The next morning around 9 o’clock, I am lazily standing on the balcony watching the street down below and the sea in front of me, when I spot the captain, coming our direction. When he appreciates being noticed, the shakes his head and throws up the hands, showing there is no ride possible also today. I faintly hear: “Leider keine Leute”. I return to the apartment with the news. We can continue the lazy breakfast and should think of other plans.
As the morning is comparatively cool and cloudy, I suggest a 4-hour hike in the nearby mountains. Mr. M objects, as he reasonably anticipates a significant rise in outside temperature in the next hours, and the hike in 30ies predictably will be like being fried on a hot pan. His counter-suggestion, I must admit, is appealing: to take a ferry to Rab island. After short search on the internet I have made a plan for the visit, which includes a hike through the Dundo forest, the Paradise Beach “Rajska Plaža“, and visiting Rab town.
As the morning is comparatively cool and cloudy, I suggest a 4-hour hike in the nearby mountains. Mr. M objects, as he reasonably anticipates a significant rise in outside temperature in the next hours, and the hike in 30ies predictably will be like being fried on a hot pan. His counter-suggestion, I must admit, is appealing: to take a ferry to Rab island. After short search on the internet I have made a plan for the visit, which includes a hike through the Dundo forest, the Paradise Beach “Rajska Plaža“, and visiting Rab town.
Ferry to the Rab island takes off from Stinica, which is half an hour drive from Karlobag. This time we arrive on time and can even have an ice cream while waiting for the ferry to dock. The ride is 20 minutes long and the ferry holds quite a lot of tourists. While in Karlobag we were almost the only foreigners, this is not the case on this ferry anymore.
Finding the forest is a bit challenging despite the fact the island is tiny and everything is just few kilometers apart.
Nearby a town called “Kampor” there is a sign on the left to the Rab Archaeological Traces - Trail Capo Fronte. From there one can take any of the roads, park the car somewhere and make a loop through the forest. We parked the car almost at the end of the road, heading left from the site (and information board) and made a decent loop, using both bigger roads and nice paths. Leaving the car just after Appartments Makaus, one can enter the forest and after 40 minutes walk find oneself at Kristofor beach. From there it is possible to take a path nearby the coast to Uvala Čifnata – a sandy beach (even at this post-covid time there were people and several boats at anchor, as the place is perfect for a swim. From Uvala Čifnata there is an asphalt road back to the main road (easy walk, only hot). The “Signature walk” in the blazing sun, as pointedly declared by Mr. M.
Finding the forest is a bit challenging despite the fact the island is tiny and everything is just few kilometers apart.
Nearby a town called “Kampor” there is a sign on the left to the Rab Archaeological Traces - Trail Capo Fronte. From there one can take any of the roads, park the car somewhere and make a loop through the forest. We parked the car almost at the end of the road, heading left from the site (and information board) and made a decent loop, using both bigger roads and nice paths. Leaving the car just after Appartments Makaus, one can enter the forest and after 40 minutes walk find oneself at Kristofor beach. From there it is possible to take a path nearby the coast to Uvala Čifnata – a sandy beach (even at this post-covid time there were people and several boats at anchor, as the place is perfect for a swim. From Uvala Čifnata there is an asphalt road back to the main road (easy walk, only hot). The “Signature walk” in the blazing sun, as pointedly declared by Mr. M.
After that walk I’m ready to head to the beach! Rajska, I’m coming!
Also Paradise beach is comparatively empty. One can get a lounge and a parasol (this time, unfortunately, there is no choice between drink/ no drink fee). And one can get a swim… if one is patient enough. Why patience? Because the beach is so shallow, one must go for tens, no, hundreds of meters to get the water above the knees! I give up after some 100+ meters and fall facedown in the knee-deep water. At least it is in the perfect temperature! My mom would love this beach! She is not good at swimming, but here, when you get as deep as up to the waist (and can swim without a risk of hitting the ground with your knees, you can swim and swim, and the water won’t we over your head for long.
Also Paradise beach is comparatively empty. One can get a lounge and a parasol (this time, unfortunately, there is no choice between drink/ no drink fee). And one can get a swim… if one is patient enough. Why patience? Because the beach is so shallow, one must go for tens, no, hundreds of meters to get the water above the knees! I give up after some 100+ meters and fall facedown in the knee-deep water. At least it is in the perfect temperature! My mom would love this beach! She is not good at swimming, but here, when you get as deep as up to the waist (and can swim without a risk of hitting the ground with your knees, you can swim and swim, and the water won’t we over your head for long.
The evening came too quickly. When we get back to Rab (town), it is already past 5pm. We are hungry and head to a restaurant, having really good reviews at TripAdvisor (#1 in Rab). Covid-times. We are the only ones! But the food is amazing! Grilled see food, grilled fish, I savor every bite. However, the times passes so quickly, we do not have time for a walk through the city, which is really a shame. I would love to stay here overnight. It seemed so beautiful. And in our case - covid-empty, with jut few tourists. Maybe a rare opportunity lost. I would strongly suggest everyone staying there, not rushing to the last but one ferry to mainland.
There is a queue of speeding cars heading towards the ferry port. 15-minute drive when cars with local numbers overtakes us just to be in front of us in the line, can make nervous. Luckily, the ferry is big enought, allowing everyone waiting to embark (few places are even left vacant).
We hit Karlobag at the same minute the sun disappears behind the horizon. Although we walk to “our” bench, all we can see is the reflection of the setting sun in the clouds. I cannot indulge in long wine tasting as next morning at 9 I have to attend the thesis defense. Furthermore, I have not yet decided, where to establish my office as the internet in the apartment and on the balcony is too weak. The best signal of Wi-Fi is in the staircase. Or on the street, as the open-to-everyone town’s internet has not got many users. Notwithstanding the uncertainty, I decide to postpone any decision-taking to morning and enjoy this beautiful evening.
There is a queue of speeding cars heading towards the ferry port. 15-minute drive when cars with local numbers overtakes us just to be in front of us in the line, can make nervous. Luckily, the ferry is big enought, allowing everyone waiting to embark (few places are even left vacant).
We hit Karlobag at the same minute the sun disappears behind the horizon. Although we walk to “our” bench, all we can see is the reflection of the setting sun in the clouds. I cannot indulge in long wine tasting as next morning at 9 I have to attend the thesis defense. Furthermore, I have not yet decided, where to establish my office as the internet in the apartment and on the balcony is too weak. The best signal of Wi-Fi is in the staircase. Or on the street, as the open-to-everyone town’s internet has not got many users. Notwithstanding the uncertainty, I decide to postpone any decision-taking to morning and enjoy this beautiful evening.
We return to Karlobag in time to get ready for the evening routine with the local white (not diluted as per suggestion of the previously mentioned shop assistant) at the docks, watching sunset. I start to like that.
Ferries to Rab: https://www.croatiaferries.com/stinica-misnjak-ferry.htm
Dundo forest: https://ju-priroda.hr/en/protected-nature-areas/dundo-forest/
Rajska Plaža https://1001beach.com/en/europe/croatia/rajska_plaza
Restaurant: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g1799875-d2235957
https://www.ekvarner.info/konoba-rab/
Dundo forest: https://ju-priroda.hr/en/protected-nature-areas/dundo-forest/
Rajska Plaža https://1001beach.com/en/europe/croatia/rajska_plaza
Restaurant: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g1799875-d2235957
https://www.ekvarner.info/konoba-rab/
