Pag
At nine o’ clock next morning, as I approach the excursion boat, the captain emerges from within. “Es tut mir leid, keine Leute,” he sadly throws up his hands. Of course, he would like to have clients, and, of course, he is not interested in burning the oil for only two paying passengers as the fees won’t cover his costs.
What to do? Mr. M comes up with a suggestion, we may explore the nearby Pag island, the one the boat would take us, but on our own. “How far is the ferry port?” he asks. As it is only 15-minute drive away, and after we have established that the ferries are traversing to the island every hour, we are ready to hit the road. We approach Prizna port 3 minutes before the scheduled departure time of the ferry, but still manage to buy the tickets and get on board. The doors of the ferry close (or one must say lift?) just behind our car.
What to do? Mr. M comes up with a suggestion, we may explore the nearby Pag island, the one the boat would take us, but on our own. “How far is the ferry port?” he asks. As it is only 15-minute drive away, and after we have established that the ferries are traversing to the island every hour, we are ready to hit the road. We approach Prizna port 3 minutes before the scheduled departure time of the ferry, but still manage to buy the tickets and get on board. The doors of the ferry close (or one must say lift?) just behind our car.
The ride over to the island takes less than 15 minutes (you cannot have a long and sophisticated drink in the bar, there is simply no time for that) and we are on a desert-like road. Internet site I explored reports a sightseeing object - the Bermuda triangle – somewhere on our way. A place for a short hike. But seems that the Mystery of the Triangle is that no signposts can be seen from the road, or we are too careless to spot them. No worries, the next object is nearby: Zrce Festival Beach. Although at the first glance it seems abandoned, deserted and closed behind the chains, actually it is wide open and waits for the customers. It is a beautiful beach with a turquoise-colored clear water, perfect place for a swim in a perfect temperature, with perfect views around. There are few dozen people on the beach. We occupy lounges with a parasol and in few minutes a guy approaches with an offer: we can either pay 90 kunas for the lounges and parasol or buy two drinks from his bar. No doubt, we choose drinks. While Mr. M goes to grab them, I am already in the water, and the latter is simply perfect.
Coming back with the drinks, Mr. M recounts the bartender’s story that usually at the high season there are around 4000 people on this beach. No, I would not like to visit the place then! There are some advantages in traveling during the first days after the travel restrictions are lifted and people have not got on their vacations yet.
After a few swims we are ready to head to Pag town – a place promising a restaurant featuring local cuisine: famous Pag lamb and freshly caught fish. However, Na Tale (this is the restaurant’s name) is closed. The waiters buzzing around it take us to a different place, where, according to them, the menu is the same. Not sure, as the dishes are not very exciting. I get the promised lamb, but wouldn’t say it is the best I’ve ever eaten (it is ok). After the lunch we cannot skip a “točiona vina” (“tochka”?), a typical touristy place to buy local stuff. We take a bottle of local white wine (Gegič, as the Žutica, according to the shop assistant is just a bit better house wine), joking in between ourselves that in the nearby supermarket we could get the same bottle for half of the price.
Further on we enjoy a scenic road trip crossing the whole island, which is connected to the mainland by a short bridge. On the Pag side of the bridge there is a roadside vendor, offering a coffee and treats: honey, figs, and olive oil. He seems surprised of our question whether it is possible to buy local pickled olives. It would seem so fitting – to see grandmas selling their production on the roadside. But, according to this vendor, this is not a tradition in Croatia. |
After having veered off the road unsuccessfully few times in search of a nice beach (it is scorching hot), we decide to head home to Karlbag. The seaside road is picturesque, winding up and down the coastline. We enjoy the view and I start pondering that would like to try some of the local a-la home-made drinks (simply called somogons, the local moonshine). Starting with travarica – herbal brandy. While I play with the idea, we spot a nice beach at the very roadside and Mr. M stops for me to get the needed refreshment in the blue Adriatic water. Meanwhile he discusses my previous ideas with the bartender at the small seaside buffet. The lady offers me a kind of liquor, which turns out to be impossibly sweet. Icky. I send Mr. M to ask for a travarica, let’s finally try one! He returns with two glasses of raki/ rakija, given to us “on the house”, with a condition we buy the next ones if we like it. Yikes, no! Someone should pay me to drink it not the opposite!
We return to Karlobag in time to get ready for the evening routine with the local white (not diluted as per suggestion of the previously mentioned shop assistant) at the docks, watching sunset. I start to like that.
Info on ferry timetable: https://www.croatiaferries.com/prizna-zigljen-ferry.htm
Zrce Festival Beach: https://zrce.com/
Mini beach: beach Duboka Kruščica : https://www.beachrex.com/en/croatia/dalmatia/tribanj-beaches/beach-duboka-kruscica
Zrce Festival Beach: https://zrce.com/
Mini beach: beach Duboka Kruščica : https://www.beachrex.com/en/croatia/dalmatia/tribanj-beaches/beach-duboka-kruscica