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Bluffing boys building boats beneath brushy bluffs  jeb garā nedēļas nogale Meinā

25/10/2021

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Šis ir garais apraksts par garo nedēļas nogali Meinā, kuru nejauši uzrakstīju latviski. Tā tas teksts nāca.
Ironically, one evening at the dinner, Charlie said that it will be interesting to see which pictures I will choose for my blog. He did not mention anything about the text. And this time I wrote the text in Latvian. Maybe the tiredness after so many impressions and walks in fresh air were to blame? 
But I will write down below the same impressions in English as well. If not this week, then maybe next, or on my flight back to Europe, or during Christmas holidays. 
Šis ir garais apraksts par miles'n'miles stūrēšanu cauri diviem ar pusi štatiem, stundām pie stūres (vai blakus), par dienām, kad vakaros plakstiņi kļuva smagi jau pirms vakariņām no dienas iespaidiem, redzētā, darītā.
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Garo aprakstu būtu jāsāk ar vismaz 10 gadus senu vēsturi, lai gan īstā vēsture ir apmēram 300 gadus veca. Un proti, Čarlijs ir mans apmēram 6 pakāpes brālēns, vai varbūt onkulis (angliski to sauc par 6-times-removed), un mūsu kopīgais vec-vec-vec-…- tēvs ir bijis Vecpiebalgā mītošais Andžs Rātminders (tas, kura dēls Andžs Rātminders ir slavenais Vecpiebalgas skolotājs). Čarlija latviešu sakņu meklējumi ir aprakstīti viņa grāmatā “Crossing”, manas saknes – tēva “Klejojumos”, ja nu kādu tas interesē, bet šī stāsta kontekstā būtiskākais laikam ir tas, ka mēs ar Čarliju uzturam kontaktu, satiekamies, kad viņš apmeklē Latviju, esam tikušies arī Amerikā, tomēr nekad vēl nebiju ciemojusies pie viņa mājās. Iemesls prozaisks – viņa tuvākās mājas ir 5 stundu brauciena attālumā, bet mājas okeāna krastā, uz kurām uzaicināja šoreiz – 6,5h brauciena attālumā no Amherstas
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​Tomēr šoreiz nolēmām ielūgumu izmantot. Es biju noilgojusies pēc jūras vai okeāna, strādājuši bijām melnās miesās, pienācās mazliet atpūtas. No Amherstas izbraucām jau ceturtdienas vakarā pēc darba. Lai arī bijām visu ceturtdienu nostrādājuši galvu nepaceļot (pusdienās neizbaucot), ceļš pagāja viegli. Paldies internetam – šo stundu laikā uzzināju visu štatu nosaukumus (“nicknames”), devīzes, nacionālos dzīvniekus, nacionālos ēdienus un visādas tamlīdzīgas muļķības, ko drīz aizmirsīšu. Piemēram, Masačūstetsa ir “the Bay State”, ar nacionālo ogu dzērveni, kamēr Meinas oga ir blueberry (mellene vai zilene, tā arī nesaprotu, it ka laikam tomēr zilene, jo muta pēc to ēšanas nav melna kā pēc mellenēm). Kāpēc Misūri ir “show me State”, man nekļuva. Štatiem ir arī savi slogani (devīzes), apmēram pusei tie ir latīniski, apmēram pusei angliski, tad daži vietējos dialektos (kā Havajai). Daži ir jautri, kā, piemēram, Ņūhempšīras sauklis ir “Live free or die”. Meina ir “the Pine tree state” ar saukli “Derigo” (I lead) and nacionālo ēdienu - bluberry muffin (mums pie brokastīm viesnīcā to piedāvāja… tādu, kas izskatījās mūžīgas lietošanas; draugs teica, ka neko nezaudēju to nepagaršojot).
Pirmo nakti pavadījām viesnīcā ar skatu uz okeānu, kaut kur starp Rokportu un Roklendu. Ja man būtu daudz naudas, es šādā vietā gribētu padzīvot: viesnīcā ar lieliem logiem un balkonu, kur saullēktu var skatīties no gultas vai atpūtas krēsla, rītakleitā, ar kafiju rokās. Bet sezonā tāds prieks maksā ap 500usd naktī un arī off season šādas naktis ir “treat”. Ne velti strādnieki, kas strādā Portlendā (lielākajā Meinas pilsētā, tā atrodas okeāna krastā), katru dienu mēro garāku ceļu, jo nespēj atļauties dzīvesvietas pilsētas vai okeāna tuvumā. 
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Bet es izbaudu brīvdienas rītu, vērojot, kā aust saule, dzeru ūdeņainu kafiju no lielā automāta, un lūkojos pāri okeāna līcim miglā. 
Ceturtdienas vakarā esam nobraukuši lielāko daļu ceļa, vairāk ka 4h, piestājot tikai lai pavakariņotu kādā krodziņā Ņūhepšīrā (un, klausoties dzīvo mūziku, izbaudot vakcinācijas priekšrocības - dzīvi it kā pandēmijas nebūtu bijis). Piektdienai esam atstājuši braukšanai tikai 100+ jūdzes pa maziem celiņiem, tam vajadzīgs ap 2,5h. 
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Lai arī esam modusies līdz ar sauli un diena priekšā gara (cik nu garas tās rudenī ir), stundas paskrien nemanot.  Mazās, jaukās pilsētiņas apēd visu rīta cēlienu. Gājiens uz bāku Roklendā izvēršas kārtīgā vairāk nekā stundas garā pastaigā pa okeāna vidu (izrādās, mols ir vairāk nekā jūdzi garš, no malas neizskatījās). Ir silti, lai arī apmācies un vējains.
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​Mazajās pie-okeāna pilsētiņās daļa kafejnīcu ir vaļā, dažas slēgtas līdz ar sezonas beigām. Vairumam logos uzraksti “hiring” un “help needed”. Izrādas, smagi jūtams darbaspēka trūkums, ko agrāk aizpildījusi jaunieši, kas uz vasaru te ierodas no Eiropas. Prezidentu liegums iebraukt iedragājis vietējo ekonomiku šāda veidā- lēta darbaspēka trūkuma radīšanā. 
Jau ir krietna pēcpusdiena, kad ierodamies Roque bluffs – te okeāna līča dziļumā atrodas brālēna māja. Pirms saulrieta pagūstam tikai aizklīst uz netālus esošo neapbūvēto zemesgabalu, no kura varot vērot saullēktus. Vajag tikai skaidru rītu. 
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Brālēns Roque Bluffs ir ievācies tikai Covid sākumā, bet stāsta, ka nekustamā īpašuma tirgus te ir ļoti dzīvs: tā viņš nopircis nelielo neapbūvēto zemesgabalu. Pārdošanā izlikta arī viņa mājai blakus esošā māja, krietni lielāka par brālēna māju, ar kārtīgu mauriņu un kārtīgu skatu uz okeānu. Nieka nepilns pusmiljons dolāru, un tā var kļūt Tava!

Vakarā izejam pasēdēt pie ugunskura. Klusums apkārt tāds, ir ka ausis būtu aizkritušas. Putni pamostas tikai no rīta. Nedzird arī citus zvērus (lai gan nacionālo white tail deer es gandrīz paņemu uz kapota ceļa likumā, vēl pa ceļam uz Čarlija māju).  ​

​Nākamais rīts nes ekskursijas pa apkaimi: pārgājienu uz okeānu, tālākā kontinentālās ASV austrumu punkta apmeklējumu (nu esmu bijusi gan dienvidu punktā Floridā, Key West, gan austrumos; pārejie divi varētu būt Aļaskā, uz turieni pagaidām nesteidzos). Aizbraucam līdz Lubekai, no kuras pa īsu tiltu varētu nokļūt Kanādā. Dēļ kovid ierobežojumiem uz Kanādu aizbarukt nevaram, skaistās pilsētiņas, kas satupušas uz salām Kanādas pusē, paliek neapskatītas. Tuvākā ir Campobello, kas esot burvīga, tā Charlie. No salas ar prāmi var tikt uz nākamo salu un tā tālāk. Salās esot be tikai skaisti, bet var arī, piemēram, doties izbraukumos vērot vaļus. Tomēr arī Lubeka neliek vilties (un tā kafija, ko tur baudām, ir mmmmmm). 
 Braucot cauri šai Meinas daļai, uz mēles ir viens vards: ”Kontrasti”. Skaistas mājas ar oceanview mijās ar junkyards un noplukušām mājelēm (Vai te dzīvo tie slavenie lobsteru zvejnieki? Tie taču esot turīgi... varbūt vienkārši nedz iemeslu māju uzturēt?)  

Atceros, ka ap Dartmutu dzīvoja tie, kuriem svarīgas ir skolas, kultūra, sabiedrība. Te vienīgais magnēts ir okeāns. Vai nu tāpēc, ka okeāns dod iztiku, vai arī tāpēc, ka dzīvot pie okeāna gribas un to var atļauties: attālināta darba dēļ, darba īpatnību dēļ (kā mana brālēna sieva, kura var strādāt jebkurā tiesā štata ietvaros), vai kā brālēns, kas ir jau pensionējies. 

Okeāns var dot iztiku. Legālu vai nelegālu. Nelegālā zušu mazuļu zveja esot tik ienesīga, ka zvejnieki tiesā ātri tinot rullīti ar 100 dolāru banknotēm un bez vārda runas noskaitot kārtējo sodu- cenu par biznesu. Arī legālā zveja ir ienesīga, ja vien ir license. Te stāsts par lobesteru zvejas licensēm, kas ir briljantu cenā. Neviena dāma nepaliks vecmeita, ja tai pūrā būs kaut vai recreational zvejas license (piem., 6 stropiem, ar liegumu lomu pārdot). Rūpnieciskās zvejas licenses tiek nodotas no paaudzes paaudzē kā lielākais dārgums. (Brālēna sieva pie vakara tējas stāsta par vietējām kaislībām, kas nonāk līdz tiesas zālei – par sabojātiem murdiem, par kautiņiem, pat miesas bojājumu lietām, kur sabojāto murdu īpašnieks pats meklējis taisnību. Zvērinātie pat atriebēju attaisnojuši, murda sabojāšana atzīta kā apstāklis, kas attaisno šādu atriebību..)
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Un tad daba… tagad jau rudens krāsu pilnbrieds (foliage) ir pagājis, bet krāsu atblāzmas joprojām manāmas. Un okeāns joprojam ir tepat. Klinšainās kraujas tā krastos. Un ceļi kalnos, un sārtu mellenāju apaugusi tundra. 
Svētdienas rīts sākas pirms sešiem. Ar Betu esam sarunājušas iet skatīties saullēktu. Uzvāram kafiju, satuntulējamies, jo nakts ir bijusi ļoti vēsa, un skrienam uz vietu, no kurienes līcis  irlabāk pārredzams (pie mājas bēgums ir atstājis tikai sausas smiltis, līcis te ir tik šaurs, ka saullēktu nevar lāga saskatīt). 
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Saule aust mākoņos. Jau nosalušas (īpaši sunene Māra) minutes 10 pēc saullēkta nolemjam doties atpakaļ, kad Charlie pamana atspīdumu kokos. Pagriežamies - un tur cauri mākoņiem saule tomēr uz brīdi izlauzuzies sasveicināties. 
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Brokastojam un dodamies ceļā. Mums priekšā garš majupceļš. Līdz Amherstai tīrais braukšanas laiks ir 6,5h, bet pa ceļam vēl gribam izmest loku pa Acadia National park – vienu no desmit skaistākajiem parkiem ASV. Parks ir pievilcīgs gan kājamgājājien, gan autobraucējiem, un pēdējie var izmantot “Park Loop Road” - 27 jūdžu garu braucienu gar okeāna krastu, vērojot klintis, kalnainus mežus, kalnu pārejas un ezerus.
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Bar Harbor - pilsētiņa pie parka vārtiem -  jau izskatās nobriedusi ziemai: vairums vietu un viesnīcu ir ciet. Tās, kas vaļā, piedāvā naktsmītnes par 259-300usd naktī (nesezonā!). Gandrīz visas ceļmalas ēstuves ir ciet. Ar grūtībām atrodam vietu, kur dod kafiju (negaršīgu; ar ilgām atceros Lubekas super gardo espresso, apēdu arī tur nopirkto snack- tādu kā sāļu riekstu cepumu- super gards, tā kafejnīca pašā valsts malā bija negaidīti laba!). 
​Akadijas parka ceļi par spīti nesezonai ir auto pilni un stāvvietās nereti nevar atrast vietu, kur nolikt auto. Skati iespaidīgi. Vispār cilvēki te ierodoties uz nedēļas nogali vai pat uz vairākām dienām, paliek teltīs, dodas pārgājienos. Gājiens gar okeānu varētu būt iespaidīgs. 
Tā ka ir off-season tiekam augšā arī Cadillac kalna virsotne bez iepriekšējā pieraksta. Pūš stindzinošs vējš, bet skati iespaidīgi. Krāsas. Un var pārredzēt jūdzēm talu. 
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Parks tāds, ka it ka gribētos siltākā laikā un uz ilgāku, bet nesaprotu, kā “sezonas” laikā te vispār apgriezties, ja jau tagad cilvēku te ir tik daudz. 
​ No Elsworth- lielākās Acadia NP tuvumā esošās pilsētas, līdz Amherst, MA ceļu rada tieši 5h. (Līdz Amherst, ME gan tikai 20 jūdzes, svarīgi ir aizbraukt uz īsto!) Diemžēl nesanāk mums pastaiga gar jūru Kennebunk/ Ogunquit apkaimē, ko gribēju apvienot ar vakariņām Billy chowder place. Krodziņš svētdienās strādā tikai līdz 16. Nolemjam ieturēties Portlendā, Teksasiešu krodziņā Terlingue, kurā esam bijuši jau divas reizes. Te gaida pārsteigums. Ja krodziņš bija izmainījies jau starp pirmajam divām viesošanās reizēm, tad tagad tas pārvērties līdz nepazīšanai.  Pārvācies uz blakus ēku, paplašinājies, bet joprojām piedāvā gardas maltītes. (Gvakomole ir no īstas gatavības avokado un jūtas ķemmītes sevičē ir svaigas un lieliskas, un brisket steiki ir gluži kā labākajos Teksasas bbq). Funny fact- norēķinoties mazākā dzeramnauda, ko aparāts piedāvā atstāt, ir 20% no rēķina summas. 
​Pēc Portlendas seko tikai garš mājupceļš. Pirms noriet saule, pagūstu izlasīt dažas nodaļas Charlie grāmatā (nez, kad atkal sanāks tai pievērsties). Atgriežamies Amherstā tieši 12 h pēc tam, kad esam izbraukusi no Roque bluffs. Sajūta ir tāda, ka gribētos tur kādreiz atkal atgriezties, bet šāds ceļš ir jāplāno gandrīz kā starpkontinentāls lidojums. 
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Noslēgumam: 
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Portlendā, kamēr gaidām espresso pie kāda itāļu krodziņa, pie mums pienāk papļāpāt vietējā dāma ar sunīti (toiterjeru vārdā Chili). Dažu minūšu sarunas laikā uzzinām, ka viņa sākusi mācīties lidot at mazajam lidmašīnām un jau domā, ka varētu kļūt par piloti komercreisos. “Un man mani klusie sapņi man liekas pārdroši un neiespējami?” sabaru sevi. Ir jāatgādina sev Eleonoras Rūzveltas vārdi: “What could we accomplish if we knew we could not fail..”
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Gorging George greets gorgeous gorge

18/10/2021

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.. or fall watercolors in Vermont.. 
Cannot remember when was the last time I went to the bus stop to go to school myself (not to escort my daughter). But times change and we can hope this change is for better. However, taking a bus on Monday morning allows me to spend precious 20 minutes on writing my blog. So this is a story about yesterday.

After a hectic week (I feel like making small and slow progress with TJ course, but small and slow is better than none) and most of Saturday spent my the computer despite nice weather outside, Sunday we decided to dedicate to recreation. Re-create ourselves before the next week. Although there are beautiful places around Amherst less then hours drive apart, I wanted to have a trip to Vermont. Browsed through the internet, looking for “best places to visit in Vermont during foliage”, narrowing down to 2 hours drive, and found Quechee gorge. Just one of many national parks and hiking areas, but at least something different. 
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The very gorge was nice, I would not say mind blowing and breathtaking, but offered few miles of hike in an autumnal day. My BF said that similar beauty one can find also nearby Quabin, but without Indian tourists. (At the Quechee gorge on Ottauquechee River we did not see any American Indians (ok, I know, native Americans), only Indian Indians. But the drive to this part of Vermont was definataly worth it! Half of 200 pictures in my camera taken this day were made while driving (and add 50 more from iPhone... lots of pictures!)
Here we have gotten to watercolor part... what comes from making photos from a moving car:
And then the gorge. 
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The Quechee gorge is just a quarter of hour drive from Hanover, town hosting (?) Dartmouth college- one of top universities in the Us, one of 6 in the Ivy League. After having a lunch at a Nepalese place “the Base camp”, offering delicious goat, lamb and boar meat, we had a short walk through the campus. 

The first impression was as of Amherst College in steroids. Which may be partially true as in AC there are less than 2000 students while Dartmouth is attended by a bit more than 4000 undergrads + graduate students. The very town of Hanover however is smaller than Amherst - it does not have UMass, of course, but also there are 5-10 times less local inhabitants as well. 5-10 is a wide range, I know, but I cannot get my head around the population numbers in these towns: do they and to what extend include the student population. How many of Amherst’s 40 258 inhabitants - first google hit (or 20409 according to https://worldpopulationreview.com/us-cities/amherst-center-ma-population data, or 37 819 in 2010 according to https://www.amherstma.gov/319/About-Amherst) are UMass/AS students - I have no idea. According to https://worldpopulationreview.com/us-cities/amherst-center-ma-population data, 60% (16 k) of all the population are aged 15-25, which draws to the conclusion that it should include also students (Hanover is having somewhere in between 8-11k inhabitants, including 4k aged 15-25, which sounds like students (https://worldpopulationreview.com/us-cities/hanover-nh-population), so the estimate could be correct.

The architecture in Dartmouth is like in most college campuses in the US, although this is one of the oldest schools in the US, claiming being established just after independence. But, being a patriot, I say our chapel (in UMass) is more beautiful
The final stop to our way home is at a Latvian family who have moved to New Hampshire just a year ago. Ugis Grutmanis is a doctor and a professor at Dartmouth college. I have "talked" with him on the twitter, but had not ever met in real life before. Nevertheless, I mentioned to him I will be in vicinity and he invited us over for a coffee. Had a really great afternoon chatting with him and his wife Tereze, who is an artist. This "afternoon tea"  made the Sunday trip even more special and fulfilling.

There were places left unexplored, and this is a great place to come visit in fall. Hopefully I will have a chance to return some day.
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Sunset over Pioneer Valley

15/10/2021

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If you are a reader of my blog you may have been disappointed that I’m not posting new entries on a regular basis. But the life is so intense that I use the free moments to watch a movie with my bf, not writing. Maybe the latter would give me more satisfaction and benefit in a long term, but in the short term every moment of my conscious intellectual activity is dedicated (a) to preparing (finally!) the classes for transitional justice course- I solved the dilemma how to tell about different phases of development of TJ  this morning, now have to put the ideas on paper and ppt; (b) solving different issues that arise in Riga, with clients- me being away does not eliminate their possible problems and questions, often this means only answering to some emails or reviewing documents. Nevertheless, it often takes at least an hour of my day, sometimes more); (c) reading or skimming books I take from library; (d) thinking of new research plans and meeting people / arranging meetings to pursue the ideas. After all the aforementioned, we could add the fact that there is a beautiful weather outside and I just have to drag myself for a walk or to read on a bench somewhere outside to enjoy it. +20 at mid October is something a Latvian can appreciate. 

And then sometimes the days come when I have exhausted myself and cannot understand why I want to pursue all those projects, feel empty and tired and lonely. Fortunately, 21st century and internet connection allows us to connect also remotely. I am sincerely grateful to my friends who spoke and wrote to me this week, encouraging, giving tips on vitamins, being with me remotely but allowing me to feel loved. I love you too, guys!

What I wanted to say with all this rambling? Maybe that despite the challenges I met (subjective or objective) and despite the fact that everything is not going exactly according to my plans, I am grateful being here. I love this place (read an article claiming Amherst as 6th best town to live in the US), I love the inspiration and possibilities it gives, and I love the way it looks, especially in the fall. Hopefully I will depart from my desk for longer than an hour or two during weekend and will visit someplace nice. 

I often think my mom would love this place. Intellectually stimulating, with university around the corner, art galleries, cultural events taking place on regular basis. And the nature - mountains all around the horizon. When I visit different places, hike the trails, find new grocery stores (like the Chinese place around the corner), or try different restaurants, I imagine taking her or some of my friends to these places. I know the places Gerda loved and would loved if we had found them last time. Strange feeling, wanting to show this neighborhood to my family and friends.
And once I started about showing and sharing, here come few pictures from the top of Sugarloaf mountain: a place over Sunderland, at the bank of Connecticut River from where you can even see the highest buildings of UMass.
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Quabbin reservoir or  Old Main Road to nowhere

11/10/2021

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The Quabbin Reservoir is the largest inland body of water in Massachusetts. Despite being located aprox. 100 km from Boston, it is Boston's primary water supply. Quabbin was built between 1930 and 1939, then slowly filled, when in 1946 it reached its current size.
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To create the reservoir, four towns were flooded. There are nice trails around Quabbin, some even paved, named "Old main road", which leads staight inside the water... 
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As Quabbin is drinking water reservoir, swimming is prohibited there. There are nice hikes all around the reservoir, roads leading to gates where driving is not allowed but pedestrians are welcomed. Nice walks, many of them leading to wonderful beaches: take your picnic basket and enjoy the view, or rent a boat at Winsor dam and enjoy a trip (fishing is allowed as well). 
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Unpaid advertising (aimed at sociolegal scholars).

10/10/2021

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Time flies. Each evening I fall in bed exhausted, having once again postponed the idea of writing down the impressions I have gotten during the day.
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Routine takes its toll. I work for home office, although I really try to cut the hours as my academic projects are lingering. I try to go for a walk each day and most days I succeed, even if this is just a walk along Norwottuck Rail Trail (a 11-mile bicycle/pedestrian paved path linking Northampton, Hadley,. Amherst and Belchertown). Only today I finally got to finish the last class in academic research course. Next projects are in line 
But two days in this week were special: in a workshop organized by Center for Justice, Law, and Societies, established at UMass and lead by prof. Jamie Rowen and Paul Collins.
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The idea of the workshop was to give an opportunity for junior scholars to meet and discuss their papers. We read each other’s papers, and there were two senior scholars – discussants, who have their feedback. This was worth a billion! To have your paper read by an expert in the field, and other scholars, who have got their impressions, questions, comments – it was very valuable. I have downloaded 18 (!) articles based on the recommendations and comments I heard.
In the workshop there were also “panel discussions”, where experts shared their opinion or expertise on various subjects. There were three main topics: how to publish an article (or book), how to find funding, and where is the future of law & society scholarship. While funding issues were of least interest to me (simply, I do not qualify), the other panels were valuable. I'm a fan of prof. Kim Scheppele (she is a professor of sociology and international affairs at Princeton, has interesting works on authoritarianism in Central Europe, and is overall admirable and her talks – interesting. I got to know law professor from Amherst College prof. Austin Sarat, and was inspired by talk by prof. Laura Beth Nielsen, who is both a professor at the American Bar Foundation and a director of the Center for Legal Studies at Northwestern University.  
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Similar workshops will take place in future as well, it looks like that both online and in person. I strongly encourage to follow the homepage of CJLS and apply for the next one!
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My new favorite place in the vicinity

3/10/2021

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Our initial plan for Sunday afternoon was to have long walk (I made claims we have to do at least 10 km, having spend so much time at the screens during the week, and having lazily sat in the boat in the middle of a lake in Berkshire in Saturday). But we know that gods laugh when you make plans. 

We were on our way to one of the hikes nearby Quabin reservoir, when I noticed a sign at the roadside "Hard cider". "What is that? Is there a "soft cider" as well?" I laughingly asked. It turned out - there is. "Soft cider" is like non-filtered apple juice, while "hard" - slightly alcoholic, bubbly drink (the cider we know in Latvia).

We followed the signs which took as to a beautiful place nearby New Salem (a town which is beautiful itself, cannot wait to see it in autumn colors). New Salem Preserves (http://www.newsalempreserves.com/Home.html)  is the place. Home made cider (and cider donuts, and vinegar), fantastic place to sample different types and enjoy the view. Although the terrains around Amherst is mountainous, I cannot think of many places using the view. (Are people used to it?) 

I loved the place. We had the tasting set, were already ready to go for a walk, when the rain started. After few hours we decided to try to go for a walk for the second time and... found ourselves again at the same place, enjoying one more glass of cider and the view. One can sit and meditate here for hours, I believe (weather permitting).

Interestingly enough, the place was busy throughout the day. Locals tend to know these places?
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Autumn in Berkshires

2/10/2021

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First fall colors in the Berkshire mountains.

Spent a lazy Saturday, watching the water, trees, fish... I had few books with me, but never opened them.
On a way back home we stopped at "Russian" store in Springfield ("Victory store", featuring foods from fSU - there one can buy pickled cucumbers and tomatoes, Russian salad, caviar, "Laima" chocolate, and sprats in oil, and Borjomi mineral water, prianniki, and Borodina bread (to name the few). Vinegret salad there was disappointing, under the name 'Monastirska izba' at we once used to know a cheep wine, but the caviar, butter and cream are good.
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Town of Leverett. In pictures.

30/9/2021

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Having a population of 1800, scattered over area of 60 km2, it is a picturesque place 15-minutes’ drive from my home in Amherst. 

We took a drive through Leverett already a day before, looking for an access to the pond or for a hiking place. However, it turns out, a car is not a way to explore this place. It takes a slow approach for Leverett to open her jewels to you.

​So called “center” of the town is situated around Leverett pond, the latter ostensibly inaccessible but so welcoming if approached slower and with more attention. 
​It is small and beautiful. The houses, except the town hall, post office, church, and museum, are built around the pond, facing it. Most of their facades can be appreciated only from the lake. Exception is those few not on the very bank of the pond, and these in my opinion are more interesting than average American house, whereby the latter reminds me of a barn with windows. Leverett town hall is a classic example. Leveret church also- like most churches around- is like a barn with a turret.
​The houses seem simple, very simple (barns!) with their main asset – the view to the pond. The terraces each of the house has, to all appearances are not for working but for sitting with a cup of tea or a cocktail (whichever you prefer) and watching sunset or sunrise, or maybe holding a rod and waiting for a fish to catch the hook. Peaceful. Yes, Leverett is not for working – it is so remote there is no mobile coverage, and no internet access. 
​When I came back a day later, and explored all the paths and small roads leading to the direction of the pond, I found numerous places where it is possible to access the lake and even let in a boat. Although most roads are marked as “private”, with signs “No Trespassing”, there are few places with public access and several specially designated places, maintained by Rattlesnake Gutter Trust (inspiring name, and there are rattlesnakes in the vicinity!), which welcomes visitors to sit and enjoy the view.
When driving by car, we missed all these places, these small signs. Even by foot I passed one of them without noticing (noticed only on my way back to car). This place just opens up so slowly. Like a picture you should sit in front of and observe for a longer time. Even the weather - cloudy at the beginning of my walk, turned no a sunny afternoon only few hours later. "Patience!" this place seems to say. 
Picture
​This property is for sale, if you are interested.
Roadside market. Prices seems lower than in supermarket and - locally produced!
​And then there is a hill and small hike just adjacent to the pond. It seemed at first like a hike though woods, nothing special. I even remembered having heard that bears are frequent visitors in this area.  Even the loop around the “summit” was all in trees. I had already lost hope to see anything worthwhile when the view opened at my feet. A bench on a brink, overlooking Leverett pond (and I could even see the turret of the church above the trees). 
I may come back. Being few hours without internet won’t hurt.
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You fall in love with Leverett. And maybe it falls in love with you as well. No internet coverage means you are stuck here if you do not know the way away. 
Picture
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Turner falls

29/9/2021

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​When you are reading about me living for a few weeks in the US, what do you imagine, what is my neighborhood alike? Are you imagining a scenery with skyscrapers like from the Sex and the City? Or mountains of Montana? Or lights and casinos like in Las Vegas? Or Texas cowboys?   
The answer is that I am spending my days in New England college town, having a lot of beautiful places around me. There are nice nature trails (not breathtaking like the ones around Grand Canyon, but Connecticut river and Berkshire Hills, which are part of the Appalachian Mountains, can provide nice views). Moreover, there are really cute towns all around me and I try to get off my workstation (adjustable high desk, decent monitor, or a sofa chair, where I do my reading), and go for a trip and explore them.
​
Today I went to Turner Mills, a place near Montague in Franklin County. A town sitting on a bank of Connecticut river. 
​This village, having population around 4000 people now, has seen better times. It was established at the second part of 19th century, and was part of industrial community, using Connecticut river as the power base (hydropower!). At that time dam and canal were constructed, as well as paper mill. The idea of town’s development was to sell mill sites along the power canal to companies (who can use canals for transportation of the goods, plus hydropower) and to sell individual building lots to mill workers who would come to work in the mills. And that worked for a long time.
Wandering though the streets of Turner falls, you can enjoy the red brick houses and pavements, as built at the beginning of 20th century during the golden age of turner falls. But this was the time the paper mill brought people to the place, offered jobs, offered business. This has changed now. It seems that main business at the town is for hairdressers and barbers.  Wandering through the streets, I can see places that out of business. Covid restrictions have taken their toll as well. The streets are dominated by crazy squirrels and barefooted artist kids. As the rents are half the price they are in Amherst, artists have found cheap places to live. Even shop chains there are different.
​
If you were to come to visit me, I would suggest an afternoon walk through these streets, dominated by red brick, used at the beginning of 20th century, we could find a place for afternoon snack or drink (there are some still), and if you would like to have a haircut or manicure, this is definitely the place to go.
Please take notice of "rock-paper-scissors" game in the first picture!  The second and the third are just tiny bit crazy. I love it.
red brick pavements and red brick buildings..
even the church is in red brick..
Pick us - you can get a beet on a street!
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First weekend

26/9/2021

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​Considering the routine I had during the week, no surprise I was looking forward to the weekend when there is no pressure to work on client cases and I can do whatever I want guilt free. Having sent an email informing the one nervous client that I won’t be available until Monday, I enjoyed the weekend in a good company of friends.
​It is believed that New England (region in eastern coast of the US, containing Maine, Vermont, New Hampshire, Massachusetts, Connecticut and Rhode Island) is at its nicest during autumn foliage. Which may be true both because of the colors (Canadian maples turn gorgeously red, not just in the yellow brownish patterns we have in Latvia), and because of climate. At the end of September most days in Amherst are pleasantly warm, temperature often hitting over 20 Celsius. So, if you want to visit New England, plan for the end of September if looking for nice weather or beginning of October, to see the colors. 
On Sunday I had a short trip around Berkshire – a county in Western Mass, enjoying hikes in nearby hills, nice weather, pleasant views and tolerable shopping (Speaking of hikes - one can do a part of Appalachian trail here, it crosses MA here).
​
Saturday, on the other hand, was spent lazily on a sunny deck and by the dinner table of my good friend ex-professor of sociology and management Neal Pruchansky, and his family and friends. 
​Neal is an old friend. I first met him in 2004 during my first ever visit in the US. We met later in Riga, as he loves the city since the days he was a Fulbright scholar there. When I prepared my application to get the scholarship 3 years ago, he was of a great help. Neal is always ready to tell a story or give an advice (especially in relationship matters, and during these years he has done his best to matchmake me with some guys), but one of his stories I remember since 2004, is about Walmart shop assistants.  We were doing shopping for suitcases, when he drew my attention to the fact that no one is offering to help us. He told me that Walmart has 10 feet rule – the assistants should ask “How can I help you?” if you have come closer than mentioned 10 feet. So, they spend their days avoiding customers coming too close to them. He is also a proponent of flying first class, asserting that this is the best way to meet and marry a wealthy guy. 
Considering our long history, you may not be surprised that I felt slightly guilty being in Amherst for already a week and not having visited him yet. It turned out, though, that he and his wife Robin had just got their third vaccine shots this week and were slightly under the weather for a day, so I was excused. 

The BBQ at their place turned out to become quite a surprise party: we were joined by Robin’s son Eli (who does crazy stuff with helping kids learn math and love learning math – desmos.com is his thing, and I only start slowly grasping what it means) and their family friend, Latvian/origin strongman Martins, usually living in California, both guys being quite a friends, and both being in Amherst just for a day and both being overjoyed to meet each other there.  
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I love listening to a good story and among them all I could enjoy plenty. Missed only G being there.
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